Sailing from Venice to Athens

Venetian splendour, the wind in your face, dolphins at the bow and islands on the horizon: being on board the Star Clipper is a stylish experience that blends adventure, indulgence and the relaxed atmosphere of a cruise

Wooden planks creak, ropes whir round brass winches, and the wind blows through hair and skirts. The Star Clipper glides across the Ionian Sea at eight knots. It is our seventh day on board the sailing ship – and for the first time during the eleven-day cruise from Venice to Athens – the wind alone is our propulsion. Some of the 81 passengers are relaxing on the sun loungers by the two pools, whilst a smaller group watches the action on the bridge. Every few minutes, Captain Vadim Novikov gives the helmsman brief instructions to adjust the course towards the Peloponnese. 3,365 square metres of white sail arch above us. It’s a fascinating sight, almost like travelling back in time to the 19th century, when fast sailing clippers transported tea, coffee and spices across the world’s oceans. Suddenly, there’s a crackle over the loudspeaker. The voice of the cruise director, Frédéric Jansen, rings out: “Dolphins on the port side.” A few pirouettes in the air, then the animals have dived back down.

A week earlier, we had boarded the ship in Venice. The Star Clipper is one of the few ships which, due to its size, is permitted to dock in Dorsoduro on the Giudecca Canal near the Church of I Gesuati – just a ten-minute walk from the Grand Canal and St Mark’s Square. The giant ocean liners we would later encounter in the ports of Dubrovnik, Kotor and Corfu are not allowed to do so.

As the sun sets, it’s time to ‘cast off’. Against the backdrop of a deep-red sky, Venice’s landmarks come into view: the imposing Baroque dome of Santa Maria della Salute and the towers of St Mark’s Square. Almost all the passengers are standing on deck, filming and photographing the scene, the beauty of which is hard to beat.

As the Star Clipper sets sail into the night, heading for the Croatian islet of Lošinj, dinner is served in the restaurant. After salad and soup, guests can choose between fish, meat or a vegetarian dish. Cheese and dessert round off the menu, which is enjoyed in a cosy, maritime atmosphere with a view of the sea through the portholes. No one leaves here hungry. The head chef also comes up with some great ideas for lunch: there are appealing buffets with various cooking stations. Afterwards, a nightcap at the Tropical Bar beckons. Guests can choose between heading to the foredeck beneath the sparkling starry sky or joining in with the entertainment at the bar. Fashion shows, quiz nights, film nights, dance classes, pirate parties or white parties – there’s a convivial, relaxed atmosphere on board. But you shouldn’t fall into your cabin bed too late, as another highlight awaits the very next morning.

Islands full of discoveries

“Good morning,” calls Inge Schöps. A good dozen yoga enthusiasts are early risers and gather on the aft deck shortly after sunrise. Every morning, against a fiery red backdrop over the sea, they practise the Sun Salutation and the Lotus Pose under Inge’s guidance. What a revitalising way to start the day.

Around midday, the Star Clipper drops anchor off Mali Lošinj. The tender service runs every half hour to the harbour of this picture-perfect island town, and guests can tailor their excursion entirely to their own tastes.

Twenty-four hours later, steep rock faces and pine groves glide past, almost close enough to touch. The crew navigates the Star Clipper through the St Anthony’s Channel. The strait leads from the Adriatic Sea to Šibenik. We pass the Fortress of St Nicholas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which the Venetians had built in the 16th century as a mighty defensive wall. How about an excursion to the roaring waterfalls of Krka National Park? Or a stroll through Šibenik, one of Dalmatia’s most beautiful port cities, with St James’s Cathedral, one of Croatia’s most extraordinary churches?

Swimming stop at sea

Back on the Star Clipper, the relaxed life on board really feels like a holiday – and all the more so when, somewhere out at sea just before Dubrovnik, the loudspeaker crackles again: “Swimming stop on the starboard side!” So, time to get into your swimwear. Almost all the guests head down the gangway and jump into the refreshing water.

Then Dubrovnik, where we’ll be docked until late in the evening, Kotor in Montenegro and the Greek island of Corfu. There’s plenty going on everywhere, with exciting excursions on offer – organised by the Star Clipper team or on your own.

The wind carries us on to the Cycladic island of Milos. We explore the white rocky landscape of Sarakiniko on the north coast, with its daring cliff-divers, and visit the site where the Venus de Milo was discovered. The world-famous marble statue of the goddess Aphrodite was discovered here by chance by a farmer in April 1820 and, after an eventful journey by sea, eventually found its way to the Louvre in Paris.

Two days later, we arrive in Piraeus, near Athens. We have covered around 1,100 nautical miles. A wonderful sailing cruise is drawing to a close – and with it, a journey in which the wind has dictated not only the course of our ship, but also the rhythm of our days.

The Star Clipper

Anyone stepping aboard the Star Clipper, built in 1991/92, will see it straight away: this is a different world of cruising – not a floating holiday resort, but a genuine tall ship. Measuring 115.5 metres long and 15 metres wide, the four-masted vessel rises 63 metres into the sky and is the elegant star of every port. Under sail, she reaches an astonishing 17 knots. A 1,360 PS twin diesel engine provides the necessary additional power.

With a maximum of just 170 guests, the atmosphere remains pleasantly intimate. 84 cabins, including nine suites, are spread across four passenger decks. 74 crew members look after the guests’ well-being. Between excursions, guests can enjoy two swimming pools, a restaurant, a piano bar and a tropical bar.

The ambience is cosy and maritime: a teak deck, polished brass, nautical décor and a library with a fireplace all contribute to the feeling of being on a private yacht. A ship for anyone who prefers to combine cruising with a good dose of seafaring romance.

Further information:

Getting there:

e.g. with Lufthansa from Frankfurt to Venice and back from Athens from approx. 450 euros, www.lufthansa.de

Price example:

Eleven-night sailing cruise from Venice to Athens on the Star Clipper, e.g. from 16 to 27 June 2027, from 4,365 euros per person in a double cabin, full board included

www.starclippers.com

Photo credit:

Petra Kirsch (28), Anja Stinshoff (1)