Five lodges in the cloud kingdom of the thunder dragon

Welcome to the small kingdom of Bhutan in the Himalayas! Until my full report on the fascinating Far Eastern country in the Cloud Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon appears here, here is a hotel portrait of Six Senses Bhutan. There are five lodges that were opened five years ago and are spread from the west, where every guest arrives, to central Bhutan. They are located in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey and Bhumtang - ideal for getting to know the country with a hotel group and then flying back to the airport in Paro by helicopter from north central Bhutan in the Bhumtang district, for example. Bhutan actually only consists of high mountains over which winding, narrow roads snake. So a few kilometers can be a long way and the flight is certainly a dream. On the press trip at the invitation of Tourism Bhutan in April 2024, I got to know the Six Senses Lodges in Thimpu and Punakha, both of which are located at a wonderful altitude with a wide view of the valley.

Six Senses Thimpu - Palace in the Sky

We set off from the capital Thimpu. For around 20 minutes, our driver steers the minibus uphill along winding roads past orchards, Himalayan pines, flowering rhododendrons, cypresses and the occasional white, standing prayer flags commemorating the deceased. At an altitude of 2650 meters, the main building of the Six Senses Thimpu looks like a mini dzong. Country General Manager Andrew Whiffen welcomes us eloquently: “We are so happy to welcome our guests to Six Senses Bhutan and this wonderful kingdom. With us, you can engage with the truly transformative power of this destination. To adventure, culture, tranquillity, serenity and enriching experiences. Six Senses Bhutan offers something for everyone - whether you are interested in architecture, art and history, bird watching, botany, meditation, spirituality, wellness or active sports,” he enthuses.

Andrew Whiffen does not promise too much, even though we only spend one evening here for a tour of the lodge and dinner. The lobby, restaurant and bar are located in an elongated, high transverse building with floor-to-ceiling glazing facing the valley. In front of it is the spacious terrace with a sensational view of the valley and the 54-metre-high, gold-colored Buddha Dordenma statue on the mountain opposite, which is magically illuminated at night. On the terrace, you can sit between a large water basin, fire pits and the wellness pavilion with its traditional architecture, which appears to float above the knee-deep water basin. Palace in the Sky is the name of the Six Senses Lodge in Thimpu - a name that could not be more apt.The interior design pays homage to Bhutanese tradition: warm wood panelling, simple, handmade wooden furniture, Himalayan carpets dyed with vegetable dye, beautiful cushions and accessories typical of the country as well as rustic wood-burning stoves, which are called bukharis here. These provide cozy warmth in the 20 suites and in the one- to three-bedroom villas, should it be necessary. Both the suites and villas are particularly spacious and some also have the wooden bathtub for a traditional hot stone bath that is so popular in Bhutan. The ambience radiates an elegant, natural harmony that immediately triggers a sense of well-being. This is complemented by the attentive, friendly service of the staff. The men are dressed in traditional, mostly checked gho (similar cut to a bathrobe) and the women in the national costume kira, an ankle-length wrap dress.The Six Senses Lodge Thimpu is located at an altitude of 2650 meters, which is why the temperature rarely exceeds 24 degrees Celsius in the shade in summer. Guests at the Palace of the Sky therefore love the indoor pool, the wellness center and the extensive activities program.

Six Senses Punakha - The Flying Farmhouse

Then a change of scenery: after a good two hours' drive to the north-east over the Dochula Pass, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of gleaming white Himalayan peaks in sunny, clear weather, you reach the valley of Punakha. At 1300 meters above sea level, this is one of the lowest valleys in the country and therefore also warmer temperatures, up to around 32 degrees Celsius in summer. The Six Senses Lodge is located around 100 meters higher up on a mountainside surrounded by terraced rice fields, banana trees and prickly pear cacti. The valley and the mountain slopes are like a large fruit and vegetable garden where everything thrives magnificently all year round.

This is why the lodge is called The Flying Farmhouse, with a spectacular lobby built like a floating glass cube above the hillside. Right next to it, the outdoor pool provides refreshment with a wonderful view of the valley and opposite is the beautiful restaurant building with a large glass front. The 16 suites and one- to three-bedroom villas are spread out on the hillside above. I stay here for one night and love my suite at first sight: It is large, just under 70 square meters and wood in a warm cognac tone defines the otherwise pleasantly simple interior. Only the sun-yellow cushions and pillows on the sofas and armchairs inside and on the terrace add a splash of color. Six Senses employee Bima shows me which cupboard I can find snacks and drinks in and tells me that she also worked in hotels in Switzerland for a while, but comes from Bhutan. I see her again later at dinner. She leads her team in organizing a barbecue evening for us in an idyllic spot surrounded by rice fields. We try various Bhutanese beers with grilled meat and fish and vegetables such as green asparagus, a type of fern and spinach. Everything tastes very good and is tailored to our palates. In Bhutan, people like to eat spicy food and a bowl of chili paste is a must on the table. The next morning, I stand on the terrace of the suite before sunrise, ready to leave, and can hardly tear myself away from the view: in the morning mist, the mountain ridges opposite shimmer in all shades of blue - a picture like an Asian ink drawing. One more reason to visit Six Senses Punakha again.

Info: www.sixsenses.com

The stay took place at the invitation of Six Senses Bhutan.

A flight over the roof of the world

The journey with the royal airline Drukair to Paro from Bangkok, Kathmandu or Delhi is a unique experience. Tip: Book a window seat on the left-hand side on the outward flight and on the right-hand side on the return flight for a fantastic view of the roof of the world. The Himalayan peaks covered in eternal ice, such as Mount Everest, rise spectacularly out of the sea of clouds. The landing approach to Paro is also unique. The pilots fly by sight through the narrow valley surrounded by 5000-meter peaks. Don't worry: they are specially trained for this demanding flight.

Info: www.drukair.com.bt

Photo credit: Six Senses (4), Petra Kirsch (6)