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Like God in France on the Riverside Ravel
Captain Philippe Stypa stands concentrated on the bridge of the Ravel. The 135 meter long river cruise ship from Riverside Cruises passes under a bridge that spans the Rhône shortly after Lyon. It's a custom work; only a few centimeters separate the bridge's steel girders from the ship. “We have to fill up our ballast tanks so that we are deeper in the water,” says the 60-year-old Frenchman, who has been captain of the Ravel since February 2023. Two days later he will have the fresh water tanks filled in Viviers. The tanks hold 200,000 liters. A lot of weight so that there is more room for the next bridge. “The Ravel was sailing on the Rhine until 2018. In the spring she was taken from the Rhine across the Mediterranean to the Rhône on a special transport ship,” he says.
At that time, the Ravel and the three other identical ships Bach, Debussy and Mahler sailed for the American shipping company Chrystal Cruises as well as the Mozart. In 2022, the Hamburg Seaside Hotel Collection took over the river ships and entered the luxury market on European rivers as Riverside Cruises. The Mozart on the Danube and the Ravel has been traveling on the Saône and Rhône since August 2023. The Debussy will set off on its maiden voyage on the Rhine, Moselle and Main in April 2024.
Anyone who embarks on the Ravel, like me on the route south from Lyon to Avignon, will stay on an elegant, luxurious ship with excellent cuisine and discover not only the famous cities of Provence such as Avignon, Nîmes or Arles, but also dreamy places in the Ardèche and world-class wine villages such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Every year, thousands of holidaymakers drive on the Autoroute du Soleil through the Rhône Valley to the Mediterranean in just a few hours, only catching brief glimpses of the mighty river that flows into the Mediterranean in the Camargue. A little south of Lyon, the river appears surprisingly idyllic with steep vineyards, castle ruins clinging to rocky outcrops, the limestone-bright foothills of the Cévennes between green-silver lavender fields harvested in late summer. One more reason to cover the 420 kilometers - instead of by car - in a relaxed manner on the river in a week and, without exaggeration, to feel like God in France.
The Ravel has 55 cabins on its four decks for a maximum of 110 passengers and we don't even want to talk about cabins. There are spacious, elegantly furnished suites in four different categories. Elegant cocktail chairs covered in bottle green velvet, comfortable king-size beds, desk or dressing table, attractive black and white photographs on the walls, marble bathrooms with large rain showers, dressing room and an electrically opened, floor-to-ceiling panoramic window. Even the smaller Symphony and Melody Suites on the second deck have this. A special feature is the 71 square meter Owner Suite, which not only has two bedrooms but also two bathrooms. In short: The Ravel is designed as tastefully and elegantly as an urban five-star hotel with everything a discerning traveler could want, including a glass-enclosed elevator, which some guests appreciate. If you like, you can take advantage of the butler service and have your suitcase unpacked and repacked with professional care.
On our tour, the Ravel is only half booked. The predominantly US guests have come from a wide variety of regions such as Miami, Chicago, North Carolina or Vermont in New England and many of them are familiar with the former shipping company Chrystal Cruises or have been on the Rhine with the ships in recent years the Danube on the way. And: Americans love sport. The bike trip in Lyon is fully booked in no time and the on-board e-bikes and normal bikes are often in use. A favorite place for many guests is the pool with a counter-current system in the stern on the third deck for swimming lengths. Afterwards, have a massage or go to the fitness room and you'll have burned off enough calories to allow yourself to be pampered in the stylishly decorated Waterside Restaurant - a buffet at lunchtime or fine dining in the evening. A seven-course menu plus a large selection of wines will make the hearts of gourmets beat faster.
Would you like a little sample? Fried goose liver with brioche - we are in France and the French are famous for their foie gras - this is perfectly accompanied by a Taittinger champagne. It also goes well with the next amuse bouche: caviar with a touch of mashed potatoes, crème fraîche and, as a highlight, a shimmering gold leaf cap. The next appetizer is a local star: the Provençal fish soup bouillabaisse. Afterwards you are spoiled for choice between four different main courses, such as fried trout, a fantastic grilled steak or a fine vegetable curry borrowed from Ayurvedic cuisine. Plus an elegant, white Châteauneuf-du-Pape or a dark red, velvety Côtes du Rhône? Connoisseurs of good wines will be happy about the large wine list, including items from the world-famous wine-growing regions that lie on the Ravel route.
For a sweet finale, the on-board patisserie conjures up classics of French cuisine such as baba au rhum, crème brulée or delicately melting pralines made from Valrhona chocolate. The chocolate factory in Tain L’Hermitage, founded in 1922 and considered one of the best in the world, is of course also on the excursion program.
The creative, always in a good mood who creates the delicious, varied menus is chef Paula Iacoblev. The Romanian trained in Spain and has been working on the Mozart since 2016, first as a cook, then sous chef and finally as head chef and is “loaned” to the Ravel on some cruises. The 40-year-old attaches great importance to local products and shops at the sensual markets popular with star chefs, for example in Arles for aromatic cheese or sun-ripened fruit and vegetables. In her free time, after about two months on board, Paula commutes on her three to four week vacation between Cadiz, Romania and Bordeaux, where her boyfriend lives - always looking for new culinary inspiration.
Still hungry in between? The bistro upstairs offers a light snack – sweet or savory – almost around the clock. Only here you feel more like you're in a coffee house with Italian chic. Of course there are also Dolci, Aperol Spritz and Rhôneblick. And the most beautiful view of the river is from the top. The Vista Deck is generously furnished with plenty of space for privacy. The modern, colorful lounge chairs are well spaced from the sun loungers and tables and in the middle of it all is the place-to-be, the white-mirrored bar - perfect for a sundowner in Saint-Tropez style. One downer: the sun deck is often closed and the hydraulically retractable bar is moved one floor down. The reason: the bridges as well as the numerous locks on the route.
The charming cruise begins through the sun-drenched region of Lyon, where the Rhône and Saône flow together. In France's third largest city, the Ravel is located on the Quai Rambaud and on the excursions you get to know the charming old town streets with the typical restaurants called Bouchon (German: corks) and you can enjoy a fantastic view from the Fourvière hill with its mighty, four-towered basilica. In the following days, the guests have several more views from the terrace of the Renaissance castle in Grignan in the truffle region of Tricastin, from the cathedral in the dreamy village of Viviers in the Ardèche or from the ruins of the new “Pope's Castle” aka Châteauneuf-du -Papa.
Here the Ravel lies on a pier in the middle of the Provençal pampas, the smell of pine trees and wonderful peace, only the chirping of cicadas shimmers in the air. We're a good 20 kilometers from Avignon, so get on the bus.
“Avignon sur le pont …” – the old children’s song can be heard on France’s most famous, unfinished bridge, the Pont St-Bénézet, and on a tour of the Popes’ Palace in the heart of Avignon, history fans are thrilled by the mighty building from the Middle Ages. We follow in the footsteps of Vincent van Gogh through pretty Arles, on Paul Cézannes in Aix-en-Provence, Roman ruins are on the agenda in Nîmes, as well as the seductively scented markets, the bistrots and the relaxed, southern French way of life, which is damning tastes good after vacation. And that's particularly good - and my cruise tip at the end - when the lavender blossoms in May or June.
Info: www.riverside-cruises.com
My participation in the press trip in October 2023 was at the invitation of Riverside Luxury Cruises.
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- Fotocredit: Petra Kirsch
