Epic stay at the Raffles Seychelles
23. February 2023Winter fun in Little Tibet
A wooden chalet above the village, directly on the slopes. Warm light shines from the windows. Inside there is a cozy atmosphere with a touch of typical Italian decoration: kittens on green meadows and bright red Ferraris hang framed on the wall. Kitsch, but ideal world atmosphere and actually not bad for the start of the holiday. Outside, the caterpillar rattles past the house, making grooves in the snow. Opposite is the best hotel in town, the Lac Salin Spa & Mountain Resort, and the lights of the 7,000-inhabitant village glitter below. Above it, the snowy 3000m peaks rise darkly on the east and west sides.
Livigno in the Italian region of Lombardy is a long, remote Alpine valley on the border with the Swiss Engadine, which was completely cut off from the outside world during snowy winters for centuries and until the 1960s. A stroke of luck for today's tourism: Napoleon made the valley a duty-free zone so that residents could stay all year round and to this day it is still a customs exclusion area for the European Union. There is no VAT in Livigno and petrol, tobacco products, alcohol and perfumes are significantly cheaper. On the shopping streets Via Plan, Via Sant Antoni and Via Fontana, perfumeries, tobacco and alcohol shops, supermarkets and sports and outdoor fashion boutiques are lined up in an abundance that is astonishing. “We have 250 shops,” says Letizia Ortalli from the Livigno tourist office. As soon as the lifts stop in the afternoon, holidaymakers go shopping and stroll through the streets laden with bags and stop off for après-ski at the popular “Bivio”.
Livigno is located at 1,816 meters, is considered particularly snow-sure and is often bitterly cold in the winter months, which is why the Italians call the place “Italy’s refrigerator” or “Little Tibet”. And since, like almost everywhere, it is no longer possible here without artificial snow, Piccolo Tibet has an advantage: “It is easier to produce artificial snow at -14 degrees than at -4 degrees,” says Letizia Ortalli.
Livigno only has a few day visitors and this is due to the journey, which is still a bit of an adventure and not cheap to go to the valley for just one day. The most frequently used route to Livigno leads from the north through the almost 3.4 kilometer long Munt-la-Schera tunnel from the Swiss Engadine into the valley with the long, frozen reservoir that glitters blue in winter. The tunnel only consists of one lane, requires a toll and costs between 17 and 50 Swiss francs, depending on the day, time and season. Tip: Buy a cheaper combination ticket there and back, arrive early in high season or expect to wait in front of the tunnel. If you leave Livigno on a Saturday, you have to drive through the tunnel out of the valley before 9 a.m. or you can only do so again in the evening, as the tunnel is open to arriving guests during the day.
The other way to reach Livigno in winter is to drive via Bormio and the 2200 meter high Foscagno pass. You can reach the village via Trepalle, a district. You should definitely have snow chains with you. The third option is a purely summer option and is popular with motorcyclists: The Forcola Pass in the south connects Livigno with the Swiss Poschiavo as well as St. Moritz and is usually only open from June to November, depending on the danger of avalanches.
And then put on your ski boots and get on your skis: Livigno has 115 kilometers of slopes, half in the Carosello area on the west side and the other half in the Mottolino area in the east. Here, two challenging black slopes lead from the highest point at almost 2,800 meters up to the tree line, which is fun for experts. Otherwise, both areas, which are connected by a free ski bus, have predominantly wide, red and blue slopes including picturesque forest runs that make the hearts of ski fans beat faster. The snow park on the Mottolino side is spectacular and acrobatic: snowboarders, trick skiers and freeriders provide goosebumps with breathtaking jumps. At lunch and later in the afternoon the Spritz is on at the Camanel Hut and it's party time with DJs, dancing and fashion shows. On the Carosello side, however, things are quieter and in the rustic huts such as the “Tea Borch” (Tea means hut) or “Tea Cip e Ciop” you can sit super comfortably inside and out directly on the slopes. Tip: Both hut hosts take guests to the ski area and back by snowmobile in the evening for a cozy hut dinner with risotto, spaghetti etc. Be sure to reserve in advance.
And who goes on holiday in Livigno? “We have 15,000 beds and in winter around 75 percent of the guests come from Poland, the Czech Republic and Germany and the rest are Italians. In summer it is the other way around and well over half of the guests come from Italy. We’re only a five-hour drive from the sea,” says Letizia Ortalli.
It's not a beach, but you can still put your bathing suits in your suitcase because Livigno also has a lot to offer for water lovers. The Aquagranda, a 10,000 square meter swimming and bathing center at the entrance to the town, is inconspicuous from the outside, but is beautifully done inside with three separate areas. Families with small children will find everything they need for a perfect, relaxing day here, with shallow pools, slides, water features, saunas and a restaurant. Athletes are in luck in the fitness & pool area with a 25-meter pool and fitness studio plus courses. Those who want to relax, on the other hand, will find wonderful relaxation in the beautifully designed wellness area with water pools, saunas, treatments and whirlpools.
Outdoor sports are ideal in the “refrigerator of Italy”: 30 kilometers of cross-country ski trails, twelve snowshoe hiking trails and, in the warm months, challenging tours through the mountains on foot or on a mountain bike in moderate temperatures. Sportsmen and athletes value Livigno because of its altitude at 1,800 meters. In Little Tibet you can improve your performance, for example for the extreme triathlon from August 30th to September 2nd, 2023. And even in August there is still a cross-country skiing competition. Then a kilometer of real snow, saved from the winter under a sun-repellent tarpaulin, is prepared on the shopping street for the cross-country ski run and the locals compete against each other in traditional costumes with nostalgic equipment.
And finally a little story that Livigno is proud of: The Italian writer Giovanni Guareschi was inspired by the residents of Trepalle to create his legendary characters Don Camillo and Peppone. So why not visit the highest inhabited village in the Alps on skis for the season finale? From April 15th to May 1st, the ski pass is free when booking at least four hotel nights.
Info: http://www.livigno.eu
My restaurant tips:
1. Kosmo Taste The Mountain
The ambience of the Kosmo is modern and purist with a glazed front and a beautiful terrace. Refined Alpine cuisine with regional products is served. The service is very attentive.
www.kosmotastethemountain.com
2. Hotel-Restaurant Piöda
Lots of wood, elegant and cozy furnishings and very tasty dishes and menus such as beef fillet with rocket, Bündnerfleisch and buckwheat noodles. Be sure to reserve in advance.
www.lapioda.com
3. Hotel-Restaurant Astoria
Cozy, simple interior and relatively large with a buffet for hotel guests. À la carte good and inexpensive food with crisp salads or good pizza. White wine from the region bottle from 18 euros.
www.hastoria.it
4. Agriturismo Fontanella
Rustic restaurant at the southern end of the valley with a window view of the well-filled goat stable. Freshly prepared home-style food such as polenta with meat ragout or grilled beef steak. Cheap. Friendly service.
Fotocredits: Azienda di Promozione e Sviluppo Turistico, Livigno (16), Petra Kirsch (7)
Almost like in Tibet – the Lago di Livigno at the northern entrance to the valley
From midday the party starts in the Camanel hut on the Mottolino side